The life-cycle of
Aculops fuchsiae is 2-4 weeks with four stages: egg, larva, nymph, adult.
The females lay ~50 eggs at one time, and in 1-2 weeks, they hatch. (If
half of those 50 eggs are female, in no time at all, there are hundreds!)
The wee mites are expert at hiding in plant structures to avoid danger, and
controlling them is difficult but not impossible.
Dispersal
of fuchsia gall mites is done by the wind, insects, birds and especially
by gardeners handling an infected plant and moving on to another-- with
the mites hitchhiking on hands, clothes, hair…
PREVENTION
& CONTROLS
BIOLOGICAL CONTROLS:
Aculops fuchsiae
has predators, some believed to have been helpful in California, but these
predators cannot get to all of these elusive, wee fuchsia mites. Control
potential here is limited.
CLIMATIC CONTROLS:
With 7 nights of temperatures in the
teens and low 20's in the winter of 2006, the climatic control potential in
Western Washington and Oregon has become better known. Presumably, the
NWFS has found a minimum range of
temperature under which gall mites cannot survive. We now know that
infestations in gardens with fuchsias that are outdoors all winter is a ‘warm winter’
problem.
CONTROL BY FUCHSIA
GROWERS: How fuchsia growers raise
their fuchsias has an enormous effect on spreading fuchsia mite. Advice
from the American Fuchsia Society (AFS) based in San Francisco, suggests 3
approaches:
1. Destroy fuchsia mite infected plants.
New starts are inexpensive. They should be purchased from fuchsia specialists
who are aware of the problem and have a program to avoid it. Then…
2. Raise Gall Mite Resistant and Immune fuchsias. Like with most
pests, mites are attracted to some fuchsias, but not to all. Brazilian fuchsias,
where the mite originated, have developed resistance. Mites may be
present, but damage is minor. Several species are resistant and pass that trait
on to their offspring. Some fuchsias are even immune. Hybridizers in
California are raising new cultivars specifically for their gall mite
resistance. They are appearing in PNW fuchsia nurseries.
3. If mite damage appears: Prune
out the damage to the plant parts.
Use chemical controls- choices listed below.
>In general, establish a program to keep
plants healthy; stick to it so that you don’t spread mites to neighbors and
reinfect your own plants.
>Do not
work on an infected plant and then go to one not infected. YOU will
just spread the mite.
>In
handling infected plant material, wear disposable gloves, burn the plant
material or place it in a plastic bag,
tie it up snuggly, and put it and the gloves in the garbage. Do
NOT compost or recycle it.
>Shower and change your clothes
before you work on clean plants—don’t let the mites hitchhike on you!
>Disinfect tools and containers.
>If possible, isolate infected plants
and keep animals away; they could also carry mites to other fuchsias.
CHEMICAL CONTROLS:
IMPORTANT-
Whatever chemical controls you use…
1. Choose products specified for
Aculops fuchsiae/fuchsia gall mite or eriophyid mites & safe
for fuchsias or ornamental plants. Notice
whether it’s an indoor or outdoor product.
Names
of pesticides can be similar and
confusing. Read the label!
2. Read the directions carefully and
follow them so that plants are not re-infected.
3. Read and follow the safety
precautions. Some products are toxic to humans and other animals.
CONTACT SPRAYS- Partial/Temporary Control
After pruning and cleaning up infested plants,
contact sprays can help control mites. Saturate the plant because light
applications will build immunity. With contact sprays you want to get the new
hatchlings, so remembering the life cycle, three applications,
7-10 days apart are needed- or as directed for fuchsia mite on the
product.
Contact sprays include horticultural oils and
soaps which smother the mites (as well as other pests) like Safer Oil & Ultra
Fine Oil (by Sunspray), Volck Oil (by Chevron), Hot Pepper Wax…
To be most effective, use with a ‘spreader
sticker’.
Control potential is limited with contact
sprays; plants may be re-infected.
If you have had serious gall mite damage and/or
have many fuchsias, you may choose stronger products with active ingredients
that kill fuchsia mites. They have a much higher control potential, are
relatively safe when correctly used and are longer lasting. For
example- Bayer Advanced Complete Insect Killer & Garden Tech’s Sevin Bug Killer. (The active
ingredient is carbaryl- hazard to bees and aquatic life. Keep away from
standing water; remove any blossoms that may attract bees. Spray outdoors and
let dry if bringing back indoors.)
SYSTEMICS- The Most Effective Control
Most effective are outdoor products with
systemic qualities, but again, there are hazards to consider. Examples: Ortho
Systemic Insect Killer (formerly Isotox-
Concentrate- For fuchsia mite, Ortho recommends 3 times; 4 days apart)
& Orthenex Garden Insect & Disease Control.
Commercial nurseries have access to products
not available to the public. Ron Monnier, of Monnier’s Country Gardens in
Woodburn, Oregon, has an effective spraying program and has had no gall mite.
For further details- Ron at
mcg@web-ster.com- www.monnierscountrygardens.com
SOURCES:
Dr. Carlton Koehler, et al, entomologist,
Urban Pest Management, U. of California, AFS Bulletin, Aug.,
1985.
AFS Bulletins-
1982-2005;
American Fuchsia Society-
www.americanfuchsiasociety.org;
European Plant Protection Org.-
www.eppo.org;
Texas A & M Extension Service-
www.tamu.edu;
Bayer, Ortho, & Sunspray product labels.
NWFS Gall Mite Committee-
Salli Dahl,
dahlhaus@myhome.net; Frankie Dennison,
rldmfd@earthlink.net; Ron Herzog,
ronh@americanrooftop.com ; Gwen Jensen,
gjensen11@juno.com; Jackie LaVerne-Crossman,
fuchsiagypsy@comcast.net; Ron Monnier,
mcg@web-ster.com; Jay Siegel,
jazfuchsias@prodigy.net.
March, 2006
